There are many makes and models of guitar, but two dominate the market. The most famous guitar players typically play on Les Paul or Stratocaster guitars.

Both the Les Paul and Stratocaster have been around since the 1950s: the Les Paul since 1952, and the Stratocaster since 1954.

Les Paul vs. Stratocaster: Is There a Clear Winner?

Since their inception, they’ve had entirely different paths and manufacturing strategies.

Hence, it’s nearly impossible to have a Les Paul vs Stratocaster battle and expect a clearly dominant winner.

Simply put – there isn’t one. However, there’s plenty of evidence that they’re both individual winners in their own right.

In this article, we’ll answer some of the most commonly asked questions that come up regarding the most prominent features of these iconic instruments.

* Made in North America excluding special models and custom shop instruments.

Common Questions About Les Pauls and Stratocasters

The fastest way to learn more about the Les Paul vs. Strat debate is by asking the relevant questions. Buying a good guitar is no small feat, nor is it an insignificant investment.

Regardless of which you choose, you’ll need at least a few hundred dollars. If you’re considering a Gibson Les Paul instead of Epiphone, that number raises to thousands.

Let’s dive into the necessary information to help you see each side of the Gibson Les Paul vs Fender Stratocaster argument.

Is a Les Paul Easier to Play Than a Strat?

Right off the bat, the question doesn’t have a straightforward answer. However, in terms of playability, we have to consider several crucial characteristics.

First, the guitar body types play a significant role. But how do size and shape make a difference in the Les Paul vs. Stratocaster reckoning? Well, the Strat has a slightly thinner body, which makes it much easier to play for many.

In comparison, Les Pauls might feel like large chunks of wood if you compare them directly to Strats. But, in actual fact, modern Les Pauls aren’t as uncomfortable compared to the vintage models.

Then, we have to consider the scale length, one of the most prominent differences between the two and relevant to playability. The Les Paul scale length is 24.75 inches, and the Strat scale length sits at 25.5 inches.

The shorter scale length of a Les Paul has makes the strings a little easier to play, but the light weight and body contours of a Strat make it more comfortable.

Many professional guitar players prefer a Les Paul due to its shorter scale because it allows greater ease of use. Generally, the Gibson scale length for all models is the same as for Les Paul guitars.

Likewise, Fender scale length is always the same on Strat’s – with few exceptions.

Finally, we have to mention the string tension which directly affects playability. As mentioned, a shorter scale length equals more string elasticity.

Les Paul wins in this round as it has a lower string session than a Stratocaster.

Is a Les Paul or a Stratocaster Better?

Considering that both guitars are incredibly well-made and come in various finishes, specs, and styles, it’s impossible to say outright whether one is better than the other.

Much like an individuals taste in music – it’s entirely subjective.

Whether you think a Les Paul or Stratocaster is better is a matter of opinion, they each have their own strengths and weaknesses. When in doubt, play it out.

Perhaps the question of whether Les Paul is superior is related to the fact that it’s typically more expensive. In addition, the Les Paul weight, usually between 9 and 12 pounds, is another reason many assume it’s a better guitar.

The Stratocaster weighs around 7 to 8.5 pounds, making it lightweight compared to a Les Paul. But a Les Paul is heavier because the mahogany body typically weighs more than alder or ash.

What Is the Difference Between a Fender Stratocaster and a Gibson Les Paul?

There are some similarities between these two fantastic guitars. For example, both can have have rosewood fingerboards. However, the differences are much more notable.

The Stratocaster has a built-on neck, whereas Les Paul’s is set and glued. We already know the differences in body and neck tonewood material.

When it comes to pickups, a Les Paul has two “hum cancelling” humbuckers and a Strat three single-coils, which can be noisy at times.

In design, the Stratocaster features one volume and two tone controls with a five-way switch for electronics. By contrast, Les Paul has two volume and two tone controls, with a three-way switch.

In sound, the Strat is highly versatile thanks to its electronics design which enables a wide tonal palette. By comparison, a Les Paul is sonically more limited, but packs one heck of a punch in output due to its dual coils.

Why Are Les Pauls More Expensive Than Strats?

Essentially, the two main reasons why the Gibson Les Paul guitar is pricier than Stratocaster are the materials used, and the build method applied.

Historically speaking, by the time Gibson started manufacturing electric guitars, they had already dominated the market with acoustic guitars and mandolins.

To this day, the emphasis on meticulous hand-crafted construction is evident in the Les Paul guitar.

With the addition of time consuming cosmetic features such as binding and inlay work, the price goes up accordingly.

Furthermore, mahogany is one of the most expensive types of wood on the market, and a standard for many custom-made guitars.

In contrast, Fender guitars, Strats included, were meant to be mass-produced from the get-go using readily available materials for every detail.

Why Did Eric Clapton Switch to Fender?

In the 1970s, Eric Clapton replaced his Gibson SG for a Fender Stratocaster and further fueled the war between the two guitar communities.

Many still wonder why he made the change, as we all know Gibson makes some of the best guitars on the planet.

While we can’t say with 100% accuracy, the standard explanation is that he was influenced by Jimmy Hendrix and his bandmates to switch to a Strat.

He famously named his first Strat ‘Brownie’ due to the color of its finish.

He then bought six more Strats and gave one to George Harrison, one to Steve Winwood, and one to Pete Townshend.

He then used the best parts of the remaining three Strats to build ‘Blackie,’ another famous Fender Strat.

Are Les Pauls Good for Beginners?

It’s essential to point out that beginners can learn how to play either a Les Paul or Strat as long as they practice.

But, as mentioned, they both have their benefits and downfalls in terms of ease of use.

For most players just starting out however, budget is a major consideration. For this reason, entry level models from the sub-brands Epiphone and Squier make more sense.

When you’re a complete novice, every guitar will seem overwhelming at first.

However, Stratocasters are lighter, have a C-shaped neck, and are often better for beginners.

What Is the Best Fender Stratocaster for the Money?

Even though they are far more affordable than Gibson Les Pauls, Strat guitars come in a wide range of prices and specs.

In terms of a meat-and-potatoes, everything you need in a US-made Strat, the most affordable option is the Fender Player Stratocaster, priced around $800.

A high-end Strat can cost up to $2,000, as is the case with the Fender American Ultra Stratocaster HSS.

It is worth noting, at the risk of stepping outside the context of true Fender USA made products, an excellent guitar that combines quality and value for money is Fender’s Squier Classic Vibe Stratocaster with a price tag of around $500.

Squier Classic Vibe ’50s Stratocaster

Why Are Les Pauls So Heavy?

Gibson Les Pauls are heavy because they’re slightly thicker and made from relatively dense mahogany.

Only the best mahogany is used for the bodies; the necks can be made with the same material or maple.

This in not to say that Fender products are feather-weight either. We’ve seen some, particularly from the 70’s, that were ridiculously heavy.

Over the decades, specific gravity tolerances used for body materials have been relaxed in order to make production more cost effective.

The result is that, in some cases, Fender guitars that aren’t as light as they could be.

Can a Stratocaster Sound Like a Les Paul?

This is a great question. Les Pauls and Strats feature two very different sounds. A typical Stratocaster footprint has the thinner and brighter sound, some would express it as “sharp sounding”.

A Les Paul is all about thicker, darker tones and focuses on mid-range frequencies. But is there a way to make them sound similar?

You can make significant changes by adjusting the amplifier settings, using an EQ pedal, and opting for the neck pickup, but we’ll explain it like this:

Through modifications you can get a Stratocaster to sound very close to a Les Paul, but, because of its inherent construction, a Les Paul will never produce a convincing Stratocaster sound.

Is Gibson or Fender Better?

Again, the question is subjective and almost impossible to answer. The Fender vs. Gibson comparison comes down to personal preference.

Gibson is an older guitar maker with a different history and intense focus on details. On the other hand, Fender makes Stratocasters which are incredibly popular and more affordable.

Also, Telecaster vs. Strat by Fender is another challenging comparison to make.

Les Paul vs Stratocaster: A Breakdown

We’ve covered the main questions about these two brilliant instruments, but we have to touch on several other specific categories.

This will give us further insight into the Les Paul and Stratocaster legacies and what they represent to guitar communities.

The History

The Gibson company was founded in 1894 in Kalamazoo, Michigan, and is undoubtedly one of the most well-known guitar manufacturers in the world.

When they started making electric guitars in the 1950s, and their best-known models were the Les Paul and SG, along with the Flying V, Explorer and Moderne though with limited success.

To this day, every “authentic” Gibson guitar is made in the US in one of the Nashville or Montana factories.

The first Fender guitar, Telecaster (originally Broadcaster), was introduced in 1950, and the Stratocaster came a mere four years later in 1954.

They were both designed by Leo Fender in California as marketing products used to support his amplifier business.

Today, these practical, every-day-working-man guitars are synonymous with professional guitarists.

Musical Styles

If you know what you’re doing, you can play any musical style with any guitar – talent is truly in the hands of the player.

However, due to the style, tone, and general comfort, Les Paul and Stratocaster are divided based on musical styles.

While a Strat can be used in any genre, it’s considered one of the best blues guitars ever. The low levels of gain make it suitable for country, pop and R’n’B music.

With Les Paul guitars, it’s all about the hands that play it. It’s original inception was to be an affordable electric guitar for jazz musicians.

Therefor of course it can be an excellent jazz guitar, but it found incredible popularity among, blues, rock and heavy metal musicians too.

Price Range

A Gibson Les Paul guitar is gorgeous, sturdy, durable – and expensive. No doubt that it’s a fantastic investment that can turn into an heirloom.

But it might not be the best option for a budget-minded person in need of a new guitar. Even the cheapest Les Paul is over $1,000. For that money, you can buy a reasonably high-end Stratocaster.

Ultimately, it’s about what you’re looking for and what will work for you. Besides, the Epiphone Les Paul Standard is much cheaper and shares incredibly similar features.

Les Paul vs. Stratocaster Pros and Cons

By Gibson

By Fender

Les Paul vs. Stratocaster: Which Guitar Is Better for You?

If you don’t know anything about guitars, it’d be nearly impossible to choose between the Les Paul and the Stratocaster.

You would probably be inclined to make a decision based on looks.

The lack of contours and the weight of a Les Paul would make it an automatic “no” for some. However, others will appreciate those same features.

The playability factor is essential but shouldn’t be the defining factor.

You can learn how to play either of these guitars as long as you dedicate time and effort.

However, perhaps the better way to assess the better option is to focus on the preferred music style and pickup options.

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Squier Affinity Stratocaster Beginner Pack Review: Is This The Right Electric Guitar For You?

The Squier Affinity Stratocaster Package at a glance:

Squier Affinity Stratocaster Beginner Pack by Fender 

Overview of an Affordable Strat Package Designed to Quickly Get You Playing

While the Stratocaster was actually released after the Telecaster model, it is arguably Fender’s most beloved and well known guitar.

Used by such legends as Jimi Hendrix, Jeff Beck, and Buddy Guy, almost every guitarist has played a Strat at some point. Squier, Fender’s more affordable guitar line, introduces this convenient and versatile model to the marketplace.

The Affinity Stratocaster Package featured here pairs a higher output humbucker with the more mellow Strat single coils.

This lets students from many musical disciplines find the right sound and feel at home on the Affinity Stratocaster.

The Squier Affinity Stratocaster Beginner Package From Fender

While the Stratocaster may be most known for the historical legends that played it, it is still employed by many today.

Modern heroes such as John Frusciante, Melanie Faye, or John Mayer have led a new wave of students to wield a Strat.

This Squier Affinity Stratocaster Beginner Package is designed to get you playing quickly, without multiple purchases or trips to a guitar store.

The affordable price tag certainly makes it appealing to many, but the guitar included is no budget minded slouch.

Who Is The Squier by Fender Affinity Stratocaster Designed For?

Well, as the full name suggests, this package is meant to make beginner’s and student’s lives much easier.

Many students will find themselves wishing for a Strat after watching a David Gilmour or Jimi Hendrix solo anyways, making this an appealing purchase.

The real value though lies in the inclusion of awesome extras and accessories. Otherwise, the C-shaped neck and body contour make it a comfortable guitar to learn on for players of all sizes and shapes.

What’s Included In The Box?

Inside the Squier by Fender Affinity Stratocaster Beginner Package you’ll find many of the same accessories of its competitors.

One thing you won’t find anywhere else is the free 3-month subscription to Fender Play that comes in this Squier bundle. Fender Play is Fender’s own guitar lesson subscription site.

This provides valuable resources to many students who will buy this guitar to begin their six string journey.

A 15-watt Fender Frontman amp, a padded gig bag, and instrument cable help you get playing right out of the box.

Lastly, a guitar strap and extra picks are thrown in just to make this offer even better.

Squier Affinity Strat Features & Specs

The Squier Affinity Stratocaster featured in this package distills down many of Fender’s finest features. The C-shaped neck is comfortable, and a common design featured on many Fender guitars you may play throughout your career.

The Poplar wood body and Fender-designed belly cut make it a lightweight and form fitting guitar to play sitting or standing. The real highlight though has to be the HSS pickup configuration.

The bridge humbucker is capable of providing that big, hard rock sound that many would expect from a Les Paul. Switch the 5-way selector around, and you can quickly go to blues, pop, funk, and more atmospheric sounds with ease.

There’s no coincidence that this guitar design is used by a wide variety of players and genres. The 25.5” scale length is larger than the 24.75” or 25” scale length on some competitors guitars, but shouldn’t discourage you from picking one up.

Affinity Strat Highlights

• Versatile humbucking and single coil pickups
• Comfortable, C-shaped neck
• Beautiful finish options
• Vintage style tremolo arm
• Lightweight construction

How To Use Your New Squier Affinity Stratocaster

Purchasing this Affinity Stratocaster Beginner Package makes playing electric guitar very accessible.

You can immediately plug in and play right out of the box thanks to the included amp and cable.

Check out this helpful demo below and see how you can get the best sounds possible out of your new Strat!

Affinity Pros and Cons

Squier Affinity Strat Review

What Do Squier Affinity Stratocaster Owners Think? >>

Don’t Forget To Comparison Shop!

Another popular take on the Strat design, the Yamaha Gigmaker Electric Electric Guitar Pack features their Pacifica model. This is another humbucker and single coil-style guitar, or HSS as we call it.

Read our complete review here.

With excellent versatility and an equally affordable price tag, the Pacifica has quickly become another favorite of beginners.

While this package doesn’t include a gig bag like the others do, it’s still a worthy contender in the beginner guitar package world!

Yamaha GigMaker EG Electric Guitar Pack with...

AFFINITY SERIES STRATOCASTER HSS PACK (371824009)

Epiphone Les Paul Player Pack, Vintage Sunburst

If you were inspired to pick up the guitar because of Jimmy Page instead of Jimi Hendrix, a Les Paul may be for you.

The Epiphone Les Paul Electric Guitar Player Package provides many of the same necessary accessories as this Squier package at a cheaper price.

Swap out the free Fender Play subscription for a convenient clip-on tuner, and you’re off to the races. This dual humbucker guitar may be a bit less versatile sonically however.

The Les Paul’s classic looks, design, and vintage finish give it plenty of appeal.

Squier’s Affinity Strat Package By Fender Is Popular For A Reason…

Much like the aforementioned Les Paul, the Stratocaster design and features are deeply embedded in guitar culture. There may not be a worst place to start your guitar journey than this, and the versatile pickup options don’t hurt either.

The free subscription to Fender Play really should not be overlooked, as that can be a valuable way to stay motivated or speed up your progression.

Overall the Squier Affinity Stratocaster Package may be a bit more expensive than the competitors.

Don’t let that dissuade you from picking one up though, the Squier Affinity Strat and Fender reputation are held in high regard for good reason!

What are Squier Affinity Strat Players Saying? >>

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You’ll also learn some of the tricks of the trade that help you achieve superior results, and guarantee a fantastic playing instrument.

This particular build was requested by a very good customer of mine, Ryan B., who supplied all the necessary goodies. As for the build process, I’ve listed the steps in point form wherever possible to keep things moving along.

Building an SRV Replica Guitar

List of Primary Parts

The primary parts for this build were purchased through a number of sources. Small hardware parts were supplied, meticulously aged, by Ryan the owner:

Klein Epic Series Hand Wound Pickups: https://www.kleinpickups.com/default.aspx

Schaller Tuners: https://schaller.info/en/

Musikraft Custom Neck: https://www.musikraft.com/

MJT Custom Aged Alder Body: https://www.mjtagedfinishes.com/

Attaching the Neck

First priority on this SRV guitar is attaching the neck. This will give us a read on the basic geometry and provide stability on the workbench.

The entire structure of the build will hinge on how well the neck marries with the body; from how well the neck sits in the pocket, to it’s lateral and horizontal positions.

As I inspected the neck and body, I took note that both pieces were predrilled for the neck bolts. With the two parts being supplied by different manufacturers, this could be an issue.

• The body and neck holes were checked for alignment. They weren’t perfect but should work fine with right approach. Also noticed the bolts themselves, which the owner had taken the time to treat, were a bit oversize.
• Using a slightly larger drill bit, the body holes were then widened to make sure the bolts wouldn’t bind.
• Checked the truss rod adjuster for smoothness and operation, then tightened it using moderate pressure – just enough to feel positive friction.
• Installed 2 neck bolts temporarily, just enough to bite and stabilize to get things started.
• Measured combined body & neck bolt depth.
• Marked that depth on drill bit with tape.
• Primed the remaining 2 holes by pre-drilling.
• Applied wax to the bolts to help them seat and seal.
• Installed the 2 remaining bolts with firm pressure.
• Removed first 2 bolts and primed those holes.
• NOTE: The last 2 bolts will not be reinstalled until later on to allow for adjustments without compromise.

Prepping the Spring Cavity

Before we move forward, we need the bridge in place to check neck alignment. And before we can install the bridge, we need to turn our attention to the spring cavity.

Because the spring cavity on this body is raw with no holes pre-drilled, we’ll first align then instal the claw plate:

• Marked out the claw plate screw positions using the plate centred to the back wall of the cavity.
• Used a 1/8″ aircraft bit marked to depth to drill out screw the holes.
• Waxed the screws and installed the claw plate.
• Checked for overall alignment – good to go!

Aligning the Neck

Moving back to the business side of our SRV Stratocaster, time to finish getting the neck properly situated:

• Temporarily installed the bridge using the outer two bridge plate screws. The bridge on this instrument will ultimately be set up non-floating or hard-tailed as per the client’s preference.
• Installed one trem spring in the back to keep the bridge flush to the body.
• Checked the neck for general alignment:
• Tied a piece of thin white string to the third tuner and stretched it over the centre of the bridge (exactly between the third and fourth saddles) to simulate string height and check lateral neck alignment.
• String height checked good.
• Lateral position checked good.

NOTE: If there’s any sloppiness in the neck joint that will affect this geometry, the extra pressure from installing the last 2 screws will tell the tale.

TIP: You can set the bridge plate screw depth by turning the screw in to the point where the back edge of the bridge plate just comes off the body. Then back the screw off 1/4 turn.

• Double checked the neck bolts to make sure they were tight and that the neck was seated firmly in the pocket. Things can change very quickly once the last two bolts and string compression come into play.
• Rough cut and dry-fitted a bone nut blank to help with scale length and intonation measurements.

• Double checked that the scale length was in the ball park by measuring from the forward face of the nut to the crown of the leading edge of the third string saddle. The third string saddle must be close to the midpoint of adjustment capability (intonation screw travel) in order to continue. If not, there are serious underlying issues which will require corrective action.
• Scale length and adjustability checked good!
• Rough set the intonation using a predicted scale length of 25 9/16″ for the B string and 25 5/8″ for the A string. These preliminary compensations are a matter of experience. See the Electric Guitar Intonation Pattern reference diagram below. The fourth and sixth strings will relate to the A string setting, the third and first strings will likewise relate to the B string setting. Keep in mind we are simply trying to get in the ball park to minimize adjustments later on.
• Glued the nut using a couple small dabs of carpenter’s glue in the slot.
• Applied an adjustable Shubb capo using light pressure on the nut for one hour.

NOTE: The nut blank was previously fitted to match perfectly flush with the sides of the neck before it was glued in. Personally, I prefer to commit to a set nut early on. This forces me to be hyper-focused on slot cutting and finishing processes. Not for the squeamish for sure, but that’s the benefit of experience.

Installing the Electronics

First job is to take stock of the electronics components, their layout, and develope a plan for installation.

The Klein pickups were already clearly marked for their respective positions: neck, mid, and bridge (nice!). Plus the leads were nicely trimmed for length.

After a little more deliberation, I proceeded as follows:

• Installed the pickups starting with the neck position.
• Installed the pre-wired controls hand tight.
• Seated the jack in the jackplate making sure it was tight and oriented properly so as not to bind in the cavity or ground out.
• Checked the jack and electronics for function:
• Once the jackplate was screwed to the body, I plugged it into a my test amp and quickly checked that the electronics were indeed working by lightly tapping on each pickup and going through the controls
• Installed the pick guard temporarily using a screw in each corner to hold it in place

At this point the electronics are essentially done. Still, I would rather only have to remove four screws, rather than the full monty, should there be a problem later on.

Knowing the controls are working properly, I used an open end wrench to tighten up the outer pot nuts.

TIP: Tightening the nuts should be one of the last things you do when installing the electronics (other than pick guard screws and knobs). If the nuts are torqued down prematurely, heat from soldering can expand the the pots thus loosening them up.

Prepping the Nut

• Marked the string slots on the nut starting with the outer strings (1 + 6) about 1/8″ inch in from the edge of the fretboard, then eyeballed the rest. There’s no trick to this as the human eye is remarkable at picking up discrepancies – either the spacing looks even, or it doesn’t. The nut also has excess height material to work with so I can “walk” the strings into position if I need to.
• Rough cut (notched) the nut slots just deep enough to hold a string in place. At this point, I’m more concerned with having a rudimentary carrier for the strings more than anything else.

Installing the Strings

• Installed the remaining four bridge plate screws to finish up the bridge installation.
• Installed the strings and snugged them up but NOT TO PITCH! That comes later.

TIP: Improve the angle over the nut by adding a little extra wrap. Because this instrument only has one string tree for the first and second strings, a little extra string length was added to the 5th, 4th, and 3rd strings to wrap around the posts. Specifically:

5th + 1/8″

4th + 1/4″

3rd + 3/8″

The extra wraps increase the angle over the nut which reduces string chatter and improves tone.

• Chances are very good that the strings won’t have to be removed entirely so the tag ends were cut off.
• Tweaked the string spaces on the nut slightly to make sure they looked even and were directly in line with the tuners.
• Taking a visual note from an original photo, marked the string tree position with an awl.
• Drilled a 5/64″ pilot hole 3/8″ deep and installed the string tree

Preliminary Bridge Adjustment:

• Took note of string height around the fifteenth fret area.
• Adjusted the treble side to the width of a nickel – .077′′ or 1.95mm.
• Adjusted the bass side the width of two dimes – .1′′ or 2.7mm.
• The remaining saddles were then adjusted to match this custom SRV Number One’s twelve inch fretboard radius.

Cutting the Nut

• Cut the string slots to near final depth. The actual final cuts will be made when the strings are at pitch and the neck is under full compression.
• Dressed out the nut by removing excess top material, chamfering the sharp edges, and removing tool marks using fine files. The fine files are a matter of preference as they tend to provide a more positive feel compared to sandpaper. The nut will also be left with a slightly rougher finish to match the aesthetic of the guitar.

Setting the Action

With all the handling, it was time to double check the general condition of the instrument:

• Checked neck condition and lateral alignment – good.
• Checked string tension – just snug – good.
• Checked string height – good. Well within saddle height adjustability – not too high or too low.

With the checkup out of the way, on to setting up the action:

• Installed two more trem springs, for a total of three, to make sure the bridge wouldn’t lift.
• Tuned the guitar up to one tone below A440

Because these strings are 11’s they’ll have a good bit of pressure. Better to apply compression gradually, checking relief and action along the way.

At one tone down, we have very slight relief as measured using the third string between the second and seventeenth frets.

The strings are starting to feel a little “mushy” along the neck. This is normal – as compression takes effect, the geometry of the setup will change and the guitar will feel different. Learn to anticipate this!

The bridge is still flush with the body but I know three springs will not keep it in place as we move forward.

• Installed the remaining two trem springs.
• Set the claw plate 1/2″  back from the rear wall of the spring cavity.
• Lowered the saddles just a touch, about one full turn per grub screw, to anticipate the increase in string height as pressure increases.
• Checked the string height at the nut. The little bit of relief made a big difference in slot depth. The strings are riding higher at headstock which is influencing the overall feel. This is entirely expected and part of the reason we approach a new setup in stages rather than committing to final adjustments early on.
• Relief looks like it’s very close to the sweet spot, but more on the straighter side. With the strings sitting proud at the nut, the slots were recut to keep the action feeling as normal as possible.
• Finally brought the guitar up to pitch and plugged it in to check operation.

Checking the Electronics

To test the SRV Strat’s electronics, my highly modified Traynor YSR-1 amp was set on “shiny dirty”. A little bit of gain helps to get a handle on the dynamics of the controls and output of the pickups.

Working through the controls, the trick is to be objective, taking stock of visual cues and sonic deficiencies.

• Everything works but the pickups are set too low, output seems a bit light.
• Raised the pickups to about an eighth away from the strings and checked again.
• Output is waaaaay better, much more lively. The guitar’s output is dynamic and sounds like what it’s supposed to sound like, but it is horribly out of tune. Again this is a byproduct of intention as the strings have not been stretched in order to maximize their playable potential.

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Setting the Intonation

Re-tuning the guitar up to pitch, time to check the relief again, and it looks perfect!

Since I’m happy with the overall setup at this point, I gave the strings one good stretch to help them settle in and prep for intonation. If the strings are not seated at least once, they’ll be too elastic to give you stable readings, and eventually drive you mad!

For a more detailed look at setting up guitar intonation, check out this article: How to Set Up A Guitar

• Double checking the overall action again, the nut slot depth is holding it’s own, string height is good, relief is good, and the guitar feels great.
• Each string was checked for intonation across the scale length.
• The intonation process basically involves using a fretted note near the headstock end of the neck, and cross referencing that note with it’s octave counterpart closer to the body in the upper register. The two notes must read exactly the same on the meter. If there is a discrepancy, such as the upper register reading sharp, the string needs to be lengthened to compensate. The reverse is true should the note read flat. Compensation is achieved by adjusting the string’s intonation screw.
• While checking intonation points, the A, D, G, and B strings were found to be spot on. only two strings were off-tolerance. The hi E was a tad sharp in the upper register, and the low E was a few cents flat in the upper range as well.
• After adjusting the offending strings, intonation for the entire instrument was double checked for accuracy.
• Results? Good to go.

Final Adjustments

Electronics:

Time to give a good listen and get a sense of what our custom Stevie Ray Vaughan Number One reproduction was capable of sonically:

• First impressions of tone – really good.
• 2nd and 4th positions sound killer.
• The Klein pickups are very sensitive to gain, very dynamic in a good way.
• The bridge pickup comes to life with great presence and body, but the neck gets a little muddy at full tilt. By backing off the gain at the amp a little bit, it was easy to find a sweet spot where everything worked in harmony.

At this point the guitar is virtually done. But I’ll go around and check the screws etc, and let it sit for a day to let pressure and compression set in.

Note there are still only two neck bolts in place – for good reason. Should things go sideways for whatever reason (Murphy’s Law), I want to be able to expedite disassembly to make corrective adjustments.

Remaining Work:

• Check action for integrity.
• Check the nut for final depth and apply some lubricant if it’s set.
• Instal the remaining neck bolts if everything is ok.
• Give the strings their final stretch.
• Take the guitar for a test drive :)

The next day I noticed compression has impacted the setup a little, not much, but enough to warrant removing the neck and make a truss rod adjustment.

TIP: Use a capo over the nut to keep the strings corralled when you need to make adjustments like this.

After removing the neck, I snugged up the truss rod about a quarter turn and felt the adjuster engage a bit better as it seated.

NOTE: Assuming an instrument reasonably well made from quality materials, a simple truss rod adjustment may only impart about 85% to 90% of the desired effect. That is to say, you may not see the full effect of an adjustment right away. It may take many hours, a day or two, or even weeks before the neck is fully influenced. Keeping this in mind, try to anticipate this extra movement by being a little conservative in your approach.

• Reattached the neck and installed all four neck bolts. As mentioned previously, this is a moment of truth. Any sketchiness in the marriage between the neck and the body will become evident once the pressure of all four bolts is in place.
• Tuned the guitar up to pitch, checked the alignment and general action again. Everything was spot on.
• Gave the strings a good stretch and checked the setup again – still good.
• Checked the nut for slot depth and operation. There was a little sizzle in the fourth string at the nut which required a little back cut to remove.
• Checked the nut operation again which was good to go, and applied a little lube to finish it up.

Test Drive & Soundcheck!

The final play and sound check was very rewarding and a lot of fun. The instrument was responsive, easy to manipulate and felt very solid.

Watch the Stevie Ray Vaughan Number One Strat Soundcheck Video!

When I shared my opinion about the final result with the client, he informed me that he had made it a point of buying high quality parts specifically for this build. In doing so, his decision had ultimately paid off in spades!

Overall, the freshly minted SRV Number One Stratocaster replica sounded and played fantastic!

In Conclusion

Assembling a guitar from scratch, whether for yourself or someone else, is an awesomely rewarding experience. Putting together an instrument that honours one of greatest instruments and iconic players of all time is doubly so!

Though this build was dedicated to one guitar in particular, it should serve well as a compass for assembling a Stratocaster style instrument of any pedigree. For you dedicated Telecaster style guitar lovers out there, you may also like: How to Build a Jeff Beck Inspired ’54 Esquire Custom Guitar

I hope you enjoyed this article, and perhaps picked up a nugget or two of knowledge along the way.

Cheers!

Steve B.

. Click Here For A Discount!

P.S. If you’re a Stevie Ray Vaughan fan, or love his prized Number One Stratocaster, you gotta have this t-shirt! The perfect tribute to one of the greatest blues guitar players to ever grace the planet. Also makes an excellent gift! Order One Today!

The post How to Build a Stevie Ray Vaughan Number One Strat! [Complete Step by Step Guide] first appeared on GuitarNiche.

Gibson vs Fender

And In This Corner…

Gibson lovers – who will nearly go catatonic at the mere hint of a beautifully carved top with just the right stripe and hue.

In the opposing corner…

Fender fans who believe their choice of six string razor is the ONLY choice that qualifies one as a knockout guitar player.

It truly does seem to be a boxing match, and the ongoing Gibson vs Fender debate is an eternal part of our guitar aficionado community.

Who Has Superiority?

Anyone who gets bitten by the guitar bug will develop a burning fever for a particular manufacturer. It’s an entirely subjective and intensely personal choice that resonates with their musical senses.

In this case we’ve singled out the two most prominent players specifically in today’s guitar market.

Who’s Guitars are Better – Gibson or Fender?

These two massive brands have been as much a part of the history of rock and roll as the iconoclast guitarists that played them. But overall, does Gibson or Fender win this age-old fight?

This article will examine the differences between the two brand’s most iconic models that have made each the go-to guitar for many of rock’s most famous personalities and inspired guitar enthusiasts for decades.

Tone Wars – Fender vs Gibson

One of the biggest topics in any Gibson vs Fender debate are the signature tones that emanate from two guitar brands. And of course, any discussion on their respective tones wouldn’t be complete without reference the type of tone woods used to construct the instruments.

In the very early 50s, Fender started using pine and ash. By 1952, the Telecaster had come into it’s own and can be purchased, basically unaltered in design to this day.

One of the best values on the market today that still captures the essential sound that first originating from a small factory in California is the Squier Classic Vibe 50’s Telecaster. Take this modern descendant, make some modest upgrades and you have a killer tone time machine.

Read our full Squier Classic Vibe Telecaster review here.

While pine was certainly light and cost effective, ash gave Fender guitars its signature sound: light, bell-like and relaxed, yet twangy when the player desires that effect.

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This is due to the malleability of ash wood, which added to the easy feel of Fender guitars. In the 50s and 60s, Fender also experimented with alder wood.

Gibson, on the other hand, primarily uses mahogany for its solid bodies, a much denser wood. This contributes to the thicker, warmer tones of models as the Les Paul Standard.

Gibson also uses maple tops on these guitars which imparts a crisp, light sound. When mixed together, they produce the familiar Les Paul sonic footprint.

As with their Fender counterpart, the Epiphone Les Paul has taken up the reigns as the more affordable version of the classic Les Paul.

Read our full Epiphone Les Paul review here.

Build Quality

Both companies were built on the backs of their namesakes who came from an entirely different era of manufacturing.

While Gibson may have been first of the two to be an instrument builder, time, production methods and market stratification have levelled the playing field for both companies dramatically.

Whether we like it or not, corporate decisions now reign supreme when it comes to continually producing instruments, or developing new products, or determining what gets to market and what does not.

With the now infamous, and very hard to watch, Firebird X destruction video released, you have to wonder why a major manufacturer would do such a thing. Especially hot on the heels of their Chapter 11 debacle.

Is it really quality control? Or a publicity stunt to create a new “buzz” for the company.

Orville Gibson’s original vision was to create an aesthetically beautiful superior built instrument, a mandolin, that reproduced the sound he wanted.

What would he think of his beloved company today?

Leo Fender on the other hand needed to sell amplifiers so he developed a guitar that was cost effective, serviceable and user friendly for the average working musician of the day.

Structurally, the major difference would be Gibson’s set neck design compared to Fender’s bolt on style. Obviously one is more mass production friendly than the other.

Conversely, a more hands-on approach to marrying neck to body will require more attention to detail, but at a higher cost.

Here’s a really cool vintage video tour of the fledgling Fender Plant in Fullerton:

The two brands use very different approaches to instrument structure, and yet the build quality of each company’s guitars remain more or less on par with each other by today’s production standards. Using state of the art machinery, they are both capable of producing stunningly superior guitars.

Typical Fender and Gibson Pickups

You can’t have a good Gibson vs Fender debate without discussing pickups, the engine of any electric guitar.

The two companies differ in the type they use.

Fender Telecaster Pickups

Fender uses single coil pickups which give the user a raucous sound heavy on the treble. These guitars are great at showcasing the instrument’s natural bell-like tone for which it is famous.

The Fender Telecaster was descended from Leo Fender’s Esquire model, which featured a single coil pickup in its bridge slot.

PAF Inspired Humbucker Pickups

Gibson guitars are known for their humbuckers, a pickup that features two coils attached by a magnet. They “buck the hum” by not picking up nearly as many stray frequencies and unwanted tones as the single coil variety.

The signature Gibson humbucker tone is a dark and relaxed sound that help give the Gibson Les Paul Standard its warmer, thicker tone.

For more on choosing a great pickup for your own guitar, read our helpful Best Guitar Pickups Guide here.

The Guitar Body

Typical Gibson Design

Gibson models such as the Les Paul Standard and it’s more affordable Epiphone sibling only have a single cutaway. Some players will find access to the upper frets a bit of a challenge because of the massive neck joint. The benefit is in solid sustain, but you have to work for it.

Typical Fender Design

In terms of weight and feel, the Fender Standard Stratocaster is lighter than your typical Gibson which conversely, tend to be considerably heavier due to the mahogany.

Built for comfort, the Strat also has a tummy cut, nicely rounded contours plus two cosmetic cutaways on its body which allows for easier access to the guitar’s higher notes.

View the Latest Fender Guitar Models >>

Weight of the Instrument

For guitarists who are uncomfortable with the extra weight, Les Pauls are a huge turn-off but…

Regarding (over) weight issues, the seventies were renowned as a decade for putting out substandard product on both accounts.

Fender was using body material which was not within it’s normal specific gravity tolerances. Some of the instruments were so heavy they could stay in the ring with a Les Paul any day.

The Neck

Neck feel can be very subjective. But one constant remains a critical determining factor – fretboard radius.

Many players who have smaller hands like the thinner neck profile of the Fender Precision Bass, Telecaster or Stratocaster, and related Squier models.

Some players also like Fender’s old school vintage 7-1/14″ radius fretboard which has a tight curve, or the updated 9-1/2″ and 10″ radiused counterparts.

The typical Fender type neck being made of maple also adds a particular brightness to the overall tone.

Fans of Gibson and Epiphone models such as the ES-335 design, like the increased width of the neck, the woody tone from the neck’s mahogany construction and the flatter 12″ radius which makes for easier note bending.

Modern Manufacturing

It’s important to note that original 50’s necks, particularly Gibsons, were not just pumped out of a CNC machine. They were each hand carved by very skilled craftsmen who were careful to stay within tolerance but still imparted that random human element.

The resulting neck profiles still had a wide range from instrument to instrument. Do yourself a favour and keep that in mind the next time you’re discussing a specific “50’s” style neck profile :)

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Fender vs Gibson Guitar Price Points

With respect to the original incarnations, the advantage has to go to Fender whose models such as the Fender Precision Bass and the Fender Strat can often be less than half the price of a Gibson Les Paul or a Gibson 335.

Genuine Fender products can be in the range of the the high hundreds, whereas traditional Gibson products easily breach the mid-teens.

But the times do change.

Realizing they had to produce more cost-effective instruments, Gibson released it’s dressed down Les Paul Studio series in the 80’s, subsequently re-released in 2013, in an attempt to keep prices more in line with the competition.

Subsequent releases such as the “Faded” series have helped to level the playing field for Gibson in general.

Speaking of maintaining a good balance, guitar t-shirts are always an affordable alternative, and help you look good at the same time:

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Furthermore, entry level instruments from the Epiphone and Squier brands respectively, and highly commoditized, often cost less than a couple hundred dollars or so.

They do serve their purpose as not all players wanting to pick up the instrument can afford the best right out of the gate.

Historically, both companies have tinkered with budget friendly, cost effective models to capture market share.

What’s Old is New

More recently, Fender has released a “new” line of instruments under the VINTERA label. But aren’t they really the same instruments with new lipstick?

What really hasn’t changed is the learning curve for the instrument. To one-up Gibson, Fender now offers an online guitar lessons lessons service to help foster new players – brilliant.

Historically speaking, both companies are guilty of trying to sustain their presence by re-introducing tried and true iconic instrument designs over time – but at what cost?

Which Guitar is Better to Learn On?

To put it simply, it will very much depend on who you admire as a guitar player and your taste in music. We are definitely influenced by our guitar idols.

For instance, if you’re a devoted David Gilmour or Eric Clapton fan you have more of an affinity towards Fender Stratocaster style guitars. On the other hand, a Les Paul may be your weapon of choice if you enjoy Jimmy Page, or Zakk Wylde, or Slash.

The reality though, is that any fine Gibson or Fender guitar will certainly be able to cover your needs if you’re at the beginning your guitar playing journey.

Either way, you should also take advantage of some guitar lessons to help you along.

How Much, is Too Much?

Have a few bucks to spare? Both brands have put out plenty of extraordinary instruments at the top end of their manufacturing capabilities:

At the high end of the spectrum, there’s Custom Shop and signature models like Gibson’s Custom Aged Ace Frehley “Budokan” Les Paul Custom – only $10,000.00 plus…

or Fender’s Custom Shop David Gilmour Stratocaster Signature Series that will command considerable premium dollars – only $5000.00 and up.

Hey, wants a couple of bucks between brands right? You can’t take it with you.

So Which Brand is Better, Gibson or Fender?

Whoever you want it to be.

I know, how anticlimactic is that…

The better guitar is determined by what you’re looking for in your axe. If you want the bright, bell-like, powerful sound that has catapulted legends such as Hendrix, Clapton and Ritchie Blackmore to stratospheric heights, go with Fender.

If you want the mellow tone that has defined the sound of rock and roll since its inception, go with Gibson. Jimmy Page and Tony Iommi sure did.

Whichever corner of the Gibson vs Fender ring you stand in, just know that the right guitar is whichever one makes you a better player.

The post Gibson vs Fender [Who Makes the Better Guitar?] first appeared on GuitarNiche.